Archive for December, 2009

Swatch Group will Stop Deliveries to Outside Brands since 2010

December 31st, 2009

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Sometime in 2010, ETA, the Swatch Group watch movement making unit, will stop selling watch parts to other brands which are outside of the group. It is not exactly new information. But as the time draws closer and closer, we are more and more curious about how great an influence will be resulted from the move.

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ETA is the largest and most prestigious and popular watch movement maker in the world, whose movements are what many outside brands rely on to provide “Swiss Made” watches. There are many brands under Swatch group including Swatch, Breguet, Blancpain, Longines and Omega. However, there are much more brands outside of the group in sheer need of the “ETA MADE” watch movements and other crucial components. In all likelihood the fact that ETA stops deliveries to competitors is going to happen and cause a great deal of impact on the whole industry.

Regarding the decision, Swatch Group Chairman Nicolas Hayek said, “We no longer intend to produce or deliver to third-party watchmakers. Swatch Group could cope very well without selling parts to other watchmakers. It only accounts for sales of around 300 or 400 million Swiss francs, which is some 7 or 8 percent of total sales. The loss will be small compared to all the advantages we will get back.”

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Nicolas Hayek and his son Nick Hayek

The move seems like going to spell death for lots of brands. And ETA has been under a new investigation by Switzerland’s Competition Commission on whether such practices of “kill” so many watch brands that serve crucial roles in Swiss national economy is illegal and monopolistic. From another point of view, the decision made by Swatch Group leads to opportunities as well as challenges. It is a good chance for those watch brands to turn into independent watchmaking companies by creating and developing their own movements. Maybe I can’t make correct understanding how difficult to create the sophisticated parts for movements with my limited knowledge. But the news can not be all bad, because there are some other independent Swiss watch makers who want to replace ETA.

Tomorrow is the beginning of the New Year. Happy New Year!

Watch of Exceptions – H. Moser & Cie Mayu Gentleman’s Watch

December 29th, 2009

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I like watches of simplicity. The concise temperament is the best thing to make me calm down from sometimes noisy world. The H. Moser & Cie Mayu is definitely one of them, as a admirable blend of simplicity, elegance, innovation, craftsmanship and intrinsic value.

While most watches nowadays become more and more huge, complicated and expensive, the new H. Moser & Cie Mayu is absolutely an exception. The case size of 38.8 mm, judged by today’s standards, is petite for a gentleman’s dress watch. However, the times of men watches less than 40mm is not long, long ago. To me, that size is just the indication of better craftsmanship. Distinctively classic in its design, the new watch features an independent seconds counter, an iconic signature only in some rare and large pocket watches.

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Beating inside the watch is a hand-wound Moser Cal. HMC321.503 movement with a diameter of 32 mm. It is regulated by a Straumann double hairspring escapement. The patented execution of the escape wheel and pallet fork in solid gold with hardened surfaces can be only found in H. Moser watches. Thanks to the use of true bevel wheels, the operation of the winding mechanism is gentle and low-wear. The 80-hour power reserve is adorable, with which the watch will continue to run accurately, even if it is not wound for three days. Through the see-through sapphire case back, we can find a exceptional power reserve indicator. It is truly a in-house movement in every sense.

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White Gold Version

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Palladium Version

The watch is attached to a finely crafted Crocodile leather strap with a solid white gold clasp. There are three versions available for the new H. Moser & Cie Mayu gentleman’s watch: a white gold model priced at $12,000, a palladium model priced at $16,800 and a platinum model priced just $17,700. These fabulous prices are also exceptions in today’s luxury watch market.

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Platinum Version

Thomas Prescher Tempusvivendi Qatar – a Watch to a Country

December 28th, 2009

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Thomas Prescher has recently introduced a new watch called Tempusvivendi Qatar, a gorgeous timepiece dedicated to the nation of Qatar. The novel Tempusvivendi watch features its double retrograde hands, which can only been seen on some vintage luxury clocks and pocket watches.

Thomas Prescher is a Switzerland-based watch manufacturer name after its founder, a renown German watchmaker. His passion and desire to content his soul full of innovative concepts have created the Thomas Prescher haute horlogerie. The brand is famous for fabricating complicated watches and has never crafted a single conventional chronograph. The Tempusvivendi Qatar watch is the newest unconventional timepiece right out of its workshop.

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Through the new Thomas Prescher watch, I can imagine the process of its birth. From a exquisite concept, with excellent design, finest materials and perfect processing, the model was created step by step just as dreams become reality.

The watch, inspired by Qatar Coat of arms, show us a wonderful image on its dial. Between two crossed Arab style swords in a yellow circle, there is a traditional sailing ship called dhow, sailing over the waves beside an island with two palm trees. A white and brown band, divided horizontally with a zigzag line, frames the yellow circle.

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The two swords move along the indicators to display the time. The tip of the right sword shows the minutes, while that of the left shows the hours. Thanks to the unique retrograde system, the two swords jump back to the beginning to rise again, after they reach the end of the index sector. If you want to appreciate the original cost of arms in gold and noble colours, you can push the button in the crown, setting the swords to a resting position. Pushing the button again can let the swords move back to give you a view of the actual time.

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Through the transparent caseback, we are allowed to admire the fine decorative work of the Thomas Prescher watchmakers. As a perfect combination of traditional engraving process and ultra modern precision engineering, the specially developed movement is highly personalized. Joining the watch comfortably to the wrist is a hand-sewn alligator strap. With its greatest tribute to the Qatar region, the Tempusvivendi Qatar watch is of inescapable magnetism for watch enthusiasts and connoisseurs.

Watch For True Love: Hublot Big Bang In Red

December 27th, 2009

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In my previous article, I reviewed the exquisite Blancpain St. Valentin 2010 watch. While the new Blancpain lady’s watch features the theme of heart, the new Hublot Big Bang in red is designed in a different way – the most passionate color of red, to celebrate the day of love. The Art of Fusion that has been marked in all Hublot collections, is extremely underscored in the latest Hublot lady’s watch.

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This is not the first red Hublot watch I have ever seen. I remember a luxurious diamond-set red watch was released by the brand in 2008, to mark the Valentine’s Day as well. However, compared to its predecessor, this new red Big Bang is definitely more dazzling, feminine and elegant. It is a perfect interpretation and demonstration of true love. Personally, I can’t come up with a better idea than the heart theme or the red theme in the direct presentation for love. Both of them are the most universal yet effective.

The case of the new Big Bang is made of white ceramic, 38 mm in diameter. In that size, the watch looks very exquisite on woman’s wrist. As known to most watch aficionados for its material trick, Hublot wins the applause again for the striking combination of white ceramic and plain steel. Completed with satin-finished appliques and numerals, the crimson dial is centrally decorated with rhodium faceted, diamond-set luminous hands for great readability in the dark. A sapphire crystal with double AR treatment is applied to protect the dial. Framing the dial is a shiny bezel set with 126 brilliant diamonds, secured with six H-shaped screws in titanium.

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Red composite resin is the main material for the bezel lugs and lateral inserts, as well as the red rubber insert in the steel crown. An alligator leather and rubber strap fitted with a steel clasp is available, good-looking and comfortable on the wrist. The fusion of leather and rubber is interesting and nice. The water-resistance is up to 100 meters. A reliable quartz movement sports the new watch.

In a word, the two watches – Blancpain St. Valentin 2010 and Hublot Big Bang in red, offer two wonderful choices for love courtship in Valentine’s Day or any other special occasions.

Distinctive Gift For Valentine’s Day 2010: Blancpain Saint Valentin 2010 watch

December 26th, 2009

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Christmas gifts, New Year gifts…… I have to admit I am a man of foresight. Today we are talking about gifts for Valentine’s Day 2010. Two watches have recently introduced for Valentine’s Day 2010: Blancpain Saint Valentin 2010 watch and Hublot Big Bang in red. The former is our topic today.

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Blancpain is a well-known Swiss watchmaker and jeweller based in Le Brassus. With the motto “Archetype of The Watchmaking Art”, the brand settles its philosophy into a deep respect for tradition and contemporary values. Blancpain has never stopped pursuing the better combination of the aesthetic and technological know-how since its creation in 1735. And now the Saint Valentin 2010 comes to present the ever better fusion of elegant beauty and sophisticated technology.

As a celebration of the day of love in 2010, Blancpain Saint Valentin 2010 watch features the theme of love. The 18K white gold case in teardrop shape symbols tears of joy, with a dazzling interweaved bezel to indicate the intertwined emotion for love. The bezel is set with 404 diamonds and 66 pink sapphires, making a solid and shiny frame for the charming heart-themed dial. The white and pink mother-of-pearl dial reveals a loving heart. In addition, accompanied with nine brilliant round-cut diamonds, a heart-cut diamond sits as the 12 o’clock hour marker. The model is simply a work of art, the best timekeeper to mark the hours for touching love in Valentine’s Day 2010.

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The Le Brassus based watchmaking company has never released a quartz watch. The new watch carries on the tradition by highlighting the world’s most smallest automatic movement “Lady Bird” Calibre 615. Comprising 180 hand-finished pieces and featuring a respectable 40-hour power reserve, the slender movement expands the exquisite beauty of this exceptional two-hand lady watch. Made from scratch-resistant transparent sapphire crystal, the watch exhibition back brings us a perfect view to admire the supernatural workmanship from Blancpain. No details are left to chance.

The wonderfully crafted watch is sure to be strictly limited, only 14 pieces made available. Blancpain claimed that the new watch will be delivered with two genuine satin straps – one black and the other white. The polished white gold buckle is decorated with a pear-shaped sapphire crystal. Packed in an extremely elegant presentation box, the Saint Valentin 2010 watch watch will help you a lot in the expression of love, as a visual emblem to love and femininity.

Richard Mille RM011 Americas White Limited Edition

December 23rd, 2009

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If we compare the watches working on our wrists with the cars running on the road, Richard Mille collection definitely resemble the luxurious Porsche line. As a racing themed watch exclusively designed for the 2010 Winter Olympics in Vancouver, the Richard Mille RM011 Americas White limited edition costs as much, but absolutely takes up much less room than Porsche cars.

The new Richard Mille watch is available only in North America, mainly for its 2010 Winter Olympics connotation. As a limited edition of 30 pieces, the new RM011 watch is a very distinguished and reliable companion for most occasions.

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In line with its racing theme, the watch features a tonneau shaped screw-down case, measuring 40mm*50mm. To ensure good strength and scratch resistance, the case is made of DLC coated titanium. Black in color, the material shines with a dazzling dark light, as hard as diamonds. The black is ended with a white ring for a tachymeter scale. The detail under the transparent dial is just amazing and you’ve got to take several minutes to get a good look at everything that’s going on there. I have been always confused about RM watches’ dial layout, just because it’s so bold and complex that I can’t get the time from the dial easily. However, it is a all purpose timepiece, with everything a sports enthusiast could ever want including a basic timer, chronograph, a 60-minute countdown timer, an annual calendar and a big date window.

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Well, from another point of view, the bold design allows us to admire the fine craft and sophisticated mechanism of the RM Caliber RM011S automatic flyback chronograph movement. The hands tipped with lume filled arrows make the watch well readable in various light conditions.

The name of the watch “Americas White” refers to the union of Canada and America for the sporting events, presented by the white rings for the tachymeter scale and decoration of the crown. The price is $90,000, reasonable for its brand and limited identity.

Victorinox Infantry Vintage Limited & Jubilee Edition Watches

December 22nd, 2009

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The year of 2009 is a double anniversary year for the famous watch manufacturer Victorinox: 125 years since it was founded and the 20th Anniversary since its first watch was introduced. To mark this significant year, the brand has released two watches, aiming to demonstrate such values as functionality, virtuosity, reliability and efficiency. Both of them are from the acclaimed Infantry Vintage collection. As shown in the pictures, the red dial watch with a red strap is the Infantry Vintage Limited Edition with 125 pieces available worldwide. And the timepiece, featuring kind of olive and cream tone, is a normal series watch, named Infantry Vintage Jubilee Edition.

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The difference between the two versions lies in the inscriptions engraved on the dial and case back. On the limited one, we can find the legendary “Limited Edition” located at 3 o’clock and “125 years” at 8:00 that replacing the numeral of 8. The regular olive dial version only has “Jubilee Edition” at the 3 o’clock position. In addition, “125 years, your companion for life” is engraved on the case back, accompanied with the brand’s logo for both watches. The Infantry Vintage Limited Edition also has a limited edition number to present its identity.

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The two watches share the same specifications, except the forementioned difference. As a striking fusion of functionality and reliability, the watch is performed in a vintage style, featuring a 316L stainless steel case with 44mm in diameter. Functions include hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph, as well as a telemetric scale. Protected by a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment, the dial presents a smart design, in which luminous hands, oversized numerals, chronograph subdials, and date aperture are cleverly decorated to provide admirable legibility. The watch also employs a screw-in case back. The case is mounted on a leather strap, in line with the color of the dial. It is water-resistant to 100 meters.

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A Swiss-made, quartz chronograph movement – ETA 251.272 powers the watch, offering a exceptional function of telemeter scale. The telemeter scale was commonly used in the past in the artillery, with which artillery observers can determine the distance between them and the enemy. Today, this function in a watch can be used to measure the distance to a storm by measuring the elapse time between a flash of lightning and the ensuing clap of thunder. This elapse time is then translated to distance by the scale on the dial.


Maurice de Mauriac New Chronograph Modern watch

December 21st, 2009

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Here is the latest watch from Zurich based watch manufacturer Maurice de Mauriac, which is considered as a gorgeous addition to MDM Chronograph Modern collection. The new model is in refined yet dynamic design, in which the vintage round case with DLC treatment, delicate dial layout and finely crafted strap are featured.

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12 years ago, the watchmaking company was founded by experienced watch business executive Daniel Dreifuss. In the intervening years, the Zurich based watchmaker has never stopped trying to produce something new and better every day. The collective which unites has been always inspired by natural things in nature and then integrated them into the creation of its exquisite collection.

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The titanium case coated with DLC is first-time conceived in MDM watch lines. As with the dial layout, a set of novel minute markers in numerals take the place of hour markers ( there are in fact no hour markers at all). Three subdials, from 12:00 to 6:00, are applied for 30-second counter, 60-minute display, and 12-hour timing. A window located at 3 o’clock is be segmented into two parts, the left for the day of week, and the right for the date. On the outer rim of the black dial is a tachymetre scale. The blue second hand is very impressive, adding a dynamic fashion style into the overall refined design. Two push buttons and a central crown, all in DLC, are put on the right side of the case.

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Inside the new Chronograph Modern watch is a Valjoux 7750 self-winding movement, well ensuring high accuracy and stability. The signature “Maurice de Mauriac Zurich” is proudly engraved on it. The strap, just judged from the picture, is made of a high-tech cloth material like a kind of canvas. The detachable folding clasp is also in DLC. The price is reasonably set at $3,000, making the new watch a desirable model for those who are fond of a grayish black themed timepiece in 2010.

New Model – Baume & Mercier Classima Executives XL Chronograph and Complete Calendar

December 19th, 2009

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The reputated watchmaking company Baume & Mercier has recently introduced its new 2010 release – the Classima Executives XL Chronograph and Complete Calendar watch. This new model expresses a striking balance between functionality and elegance. Day, date, month and moon phase functions have been added to this chronograph watch, in which the so-called “Complete Calendar” is highlighted.

Yes, it is the “complete calendar” rather than the “perpetual calendar”, that has been applied in the new B&M watch. Instead of at least $10000 for a higher end model with a popular “perpetual calendar”, a much lower price is available for this new watch. The difference between the two functions lies in whether the watch requires adjustment for date or not. Equipped with a “complete calendar”, the user need adjust the watch five times per year to account for the March, May, July, October and December to account for the prior month not having a full 31 days.

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As with the overall design of the timepiece, I can feel the indelible influence of the Patek Philippe Vintage Collection. However, similarity in creation is understandable. Date with central pointer in 18-carat red gold, day and month through a window at 12 o’clock, moon phase at 6 o’clock, constitute the “complete calendar”. A 24 hours counter lies at 9 o’clock. The silver-colored dial features a pattern of “grain d’orge” guilloché décor, under the protection of a glareproof sapphire crystal. The 42mm case in in polished steel, with a crown adorned with a Phi symbol.

A high-end mechanical self-winding ETA 7751 sports the watch. The see-through sapphire crystal caseback reveals an oscillating weight adorned with “Côtes de Genève”, as well as circular-grained bridges and blued steel screws. The black alligator strap is fitted with an adjustable triple folding buckle. The watch is water-resistant to 30 meters, and brings a good chioce for those who are looking for a calendar watch but don’t want to spend too much for a perpetual calendar.

Corum Admiral’s Cup Minute Repeater Tourbillon 45, a No-Dial Watch

December 18th, 2009

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The admirable Corum Admiral’s Cup collection has delighted countless marine and sea enthusiasts for half a century. To mark the fiftieth anniversary of this legendary collection, Corum has created the Admiral’s Cup Minute Repeater Tourbillon 45, an exceptional watch housing an exceptional movement combining two of the most prestigious horological complications: The tourbillon and the minute repeater.

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About one month ago, I only had some sketches of this long-awaited watch, and at that time I even didn’t know its exact name. But I was impressive about the unique design it featured – a no-dial watch. As seen in the picture, there is no dial in this ingenious model, or maybe we can view the sapphire crystal, which used to be applied to protect the dial, as the dial of the Admiral’s Cup Minute Repeater Tourbillon 45 timepiece. Engraved on the sapphire crystal are golden index chevrons and minute numbers, as well as inscription “Corum”, “Minute Repeater”, and “Tourbillon”.

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As one of the iconic collection, the new watch features a 45mm case in 18K red gold, which is extremely recognizable thanks to its legendary polished and satin finished twelve-sided bezel. For a sporty watch like this, it is unquestionably too risky to have the minute repeater’s push-piece extending out which may get caught and potentially damage the mechanism. So the new Corum watch has been manufactured with a pecific bezel which winds the minute repeater function
by rotating the bezel 27 degrees clockwise. This ingenious system keeps the pureness of the case line and the integrity of the ringing mechanism, and offers water-resistance up to 30 meters.

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It is not common-seen that a minute repeater has been featured in a watch with the marine connotation. However, in my view, that function is really a good match to such a watch. As is well-known, a sailor’s life is punctuated by different ringing tones, from ‘action stations’ in the morning to the evening ring. Associating a minute repeater with the new function is therefore a good way for Corum to pay tribute to the universal connection to the acclaimed Admiral’s Cup collection.

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The new Admiral’s Cup watch is powered by an innovative Corum movement: the CO 010 caliber, of which the development and adjustment of this exceptional movement took two entire years’ work of a dozen of Corum’s best watch-making craftsmen. The result of these intense years of craftsmanship is a micromechanical masterpiece of 14¼”’ – with a diameter of 32 mm, and a thickness of only 5.35 mm, which ensures a hand-wound power reserve of 72 hours.

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Through the sapphire crystal, we are allowed to appreciate the visible complexity of the revolutionary movement: each surface has been finished by hand; circular-grained components, black polished steels – in particular the strike-hammers and Tourbillon Bridge – circular-grained decoration of the plate and Côtes de Genève finish of the bottom bridges. It is said that more than 140 hours are necessary for a Master Watch-Maker to assemble the movement’s 319 components, with an additional 10 hours to ensure perfect sound and notes. So there is no doubt that the Admiral’s Cup Minute Repeater Tourbillon 45 will be extremely limited: only ten pieces will be produced through the end of 2010.

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