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Audemars Piguet 2010 Millenary Chronograph

February 5th, 2010

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The well-known Swiss watchmaker Audemars Piguet has recently presented a new 2010 model to enrich its sought-after Millenary Chronograph collection. This new entrant employs more than five colours in its overall design, revealing a very strong visual shock effect.

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While maintaining the same off-central dial with an uncommon combination of Roman numerals for the main dial and Arabic numerals for the tachymetric scale, the 2010 AP Millenary Chronograph highlights a much more appealing colour scheme. The original Millenary chronograph model features a disgusting fusion of chocolate brown tachymetric scale, black chronograph section with silvered totalizers and then again brown inner time zone. For me its contrast with blue and rose gold-coloured numerals somehow lacks soul. I immediately thought there’s surely a much better colour scheme for AP when I got some pictures of the 2009 model.

Compared to the unbalanced design of the 2009 Millenary Chronograph, what the new MC has featured looks well-balanced and even elegant. Anthracite black, silver and then again black for the outer, middle and inner parts of the case, make up the new, contemporary colour scheme. Decorated by the rose gold Roman numerals and white Arabic numerals, the whole dial design expresses a strong sense of the level. In addition, the bright red in the central second hand adds a little sexy spicy to the harmonious layout.

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Housed in the 18K rose gold case is an automatic AP 2385 movement, beating at 21,600 vph to ensure high precision. The movement offers a 40-hour power reserve and the watch is water-resistant to 20 meters. A matt-brown crocodile leather strap is available for the 2010 Millenary Chronograph timepiece, preserving the iconic sporty character and endowing the new watch with kind of exquisite beauty.

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Panerai Decided to Re-issue the Historic Mare Nostrum Watch

February 2nd, 2010

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The brilliant watchmaker Panerai is famous for its big watches, as well as numerous big names among its fans, such as Sylvester Stallone, Arnold Schwarzenegger, and Micheal Jordon. However, there are few people knowing that Panerai has been the exclusive watch supplier for the Italian Navy for almost 100 years. In 1943, Panerai produced the Mare Nostrum chronograph for the army and gained great fame with the watch. Unfortunately, the flood that hit Florence in 1966 destroy almost all the prototypes and relative documents about the sought-after timepiece.

So, remaking such a historic watch of frustrations and surges requires is very difficult and requires painstaking effort. Eventually, Panerai made it. The one and only prototype now lies at the Officine Panerai Museum in Florence in Florence, and the new Mare Nostrum watch will be reissued in a special edition of just 99 pieces available worldwide.

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The new Mare Nostrum is almost exactly like the original and only a few updates has been made to stay contemporary. I really like this move, the inheriting and innovation of the legacy. The new edition features an iconic 52mm case and offers a sapphire display back that’s not highlighted in the original. The wide, flat bezel is crafted in AISI 316L brushed steel, making the actually tonneau shaped case look round. The dial lay out remains identical with the prototype: a minute counter at 3 o’clock and a small seconds timer at 9 o’clock. The black dial underscores two levels with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. Engraved on the winding crown is the inscription Mare Nostrum. At the 2 and 4 o’clock are two brushed steel push-buttons for the chronograph functions.

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As is the same with the original model, the new version employs the exclusive OP XXV caliber, a hand-wound movement that measures 12¾ lignes and originates from a Minerva caliber from Panerai stock that measures 16 ¾ lignes. The sapphire case back allows to admire perfect and delicate craftsmanship of the OP XXV caliber movement: Incabloc anti-shock device, Swan’s neck regulator, Côtes de Genève decorations on the bridges and all the levers polished with rounded corners. The new Panerai Mare Nostrum comes with a PANERAI personalized green fabric and leather strap with a large-size brushed steel buckle. The water-resistance is up to 30 meters.

The new watch will be on sale in Octorber. The estimated price goes to 24,900 euro (I don’t want to say something about the price, since it’s the brand’s old habit).

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SIHH 2010: IWC Portuguese Chronograph and Portuguese Automatic

January 30th, 2010

In 2010, the Portuguese watches from IWC are entering their eighth decade. To celebrate its oldest and most popular collection, IWC introduced numerous Portuguese novelties at SIHH 2010, such as the Portuguese Grande Complication, the Portuguese Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde or the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph. These large format, mechanicalprecision instruments perpetuate the legacy of the famous seafarers to this day, and hand it down to today’s explorers.

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Portuguese Chronograph

The collection of Portuguese Chronograph has demonstrated the constant success goes from strength to strength. For more than ten years, it has been the most desirable timepiece in the Portuguese family, a classic automatic chronograph in its purest form. Two new models of the Portuguese Chronograph in warm red gold now extend the established range.

Two new variants in red gold cases now bring an even warmer hue and additional aesthetic refinement to the Portuguese model range with the familiar reference 3714. The latter is particularly true of the variant with the slate-coloured dial, to which the deep black colour of the subdials for the 30-minute counter of the chronograph and the small seconds impart a subtle contrast. Its hands are red gold-plated, and the appliqués are crafted from solid red gold. This model variant has already been available since the autumn of 2009. The second new variant in 18 carat red gold has a bright silver-plated dial with solid red gold appliqués and red gold-plated hands. The blued hands for displaying the times measured by the chronograph permit rapid identification of the associated functions – perfection lies in the detail. Even in their new guise, both of the new models with their slight penchant for understatement remain unmistakeable classics.

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Technical Specifications:

Reference: IW3714

Features: Mechanical chronograph with automatic winding, 30-minute counter and small hacking seconds

Movement: Calibre 79350; Beats 28,800/h; Jewels 31; Power reserve 44 h; Winding automatic

Case: watch in 18 ct red gold with slate-coloured dial and black alligator leather strap, pin buckle in 18 ct red gold
watch in 18 ct red gold with silver-plated dial and dark brown alligator leather strap, pin buckle in 18 ct red gold

Glass: sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Back: see-through sapphire-glass back
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 40.9mm
Height: 12.3mm

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Portuguese Automatic

The line of Portuguese Automatic stands for magnifiscent icons of good style. Its timeless elegance is matched by its technical perfection, makes its grand entrance as a classic horological beauty. With outstanding mechanical features, including the Pellaton winding system, seven-day power reserve and date display, it demonstrates that greatness is not only a question of diameter. Two new models, one in steel and one in red gold, enrich the elite society of these style icons.

The 50000-calibre family of large movements was developed specifically for the Portuguese Automatic to mark the change of the millennium-once again incorporating the Pellaton winding system after a long absence and a seven-day power reserve, originally intended for a limited collectors’ series which immediately gained a large following. The new large-calibre movement from IWC was subsequently enhanced with a date display in order to make the Portuguese Automatic – introduced for the first time in 2004-even better equipped for everyday use. Its dial is protected by a convex sapphire glass with an antireflective coating on both sides. With its moderate case diameter, it very soon found a place as a highly popular timepiece on both male and female wrists.

Any change or variation in this precious horological legacy will have been considered in the greatest detail. This also applies to the two newly launched model variants. The first novelty-already available since the autumn of 2009-brings a trace of luxury to the previous steel models: the hands, numerals and hour indices above the silver-plated dial are plated with rosé gold-as they once were in earlier steel variants such as the anniversary Portuguese of 1993. The previous steel models, including the variant with dark appliqués and blued hands, remain an integral part of the collection. As the second novelty, the Portuguese Automatic is being produced for the first time in 18 carat red gold, which exhibits a noticeably warmer hue than the previously used rose gold. The appliqués on the silver-plated dial are also in 18 carat red gold. The case diameter (42.3 millimetres) and height (14 millimetres) remain unchanged compared with the previous models.

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Technical Specifications:

Reference: IW5001

Features: Mechanical movement with automatic Pellaton winding system and seven-day power reserve, date display, small hacking seconds, Breguet spring, rotor with 18 ct yellow gold medallion

Movement: Calibre 51011; Beats 21,600/h; Jewels 42; Power reserve 7 days; Winding automatic

Case: watch in stainless steel with silver-plated dial and black alligator leather strap, folding clasp in stainless steel
watch in 18 ct red gold with silver-plated dial and dark brown alligator leather strap, folding clasp in 18 ct red gold

Glass: sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Back: see-through sapphire-glass back
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 42.3mm
Height: 14mm

Whew, this is the end. It is really a tough job~

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SIHH 2010: IWC Portuguese Tourbillon Hand-Wound and Portuguese Minute Repeater

January 28th, 2010

In 2010, the Portuguese watches from IWC are entering their eighth decade. To celebrate its oldest and most popular collection, IWC introduced numerous Portuguese novelties at SIHH 2010, such as the Portuguese Grande Complication, the Portuguese Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde or the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph. These large format, mechanicalprecision instruments perpetuate the legacy of the famous seafarers to this day, and hand it down to today’s explorers.

Today, we are going to review another two exceptional Portuguese watches from IWC: the Portuguese Tourbillon Hand-Wound and the Portuguese Minute Repeater.

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Portuguese Tourbillon Hand-Wound (Ref. 5447)

A new tourbillon classic takes its place in the Portuguese family, with a hand-wound pocket watch movement – tradition in its purest form. The Portuguese Tourbillon Hand-Wound is an horological gem and a tribute to the founder of the company, F. A. Jones.

The Portuguese Tourbillon Hand-Wound (Ref. 5447) with its reduced overall height and the minute tourbillon at “9 o’clock” has undergone a subtle and attractive facelift: the signature of the founder of the company, F.A. Jones, on the dial opposite the tourbillon is a reference to the factory movement of the 98900-calibre family, which is evocative of the design of the first Jones calibres. The Portuguese Tourbillon Hand-Wound, with a chunky crown used to supply a power reserve of 54 hours, is housed in a case with a diameter of 43.1 millimetres and a height of only 11 millimetres. Extraordinary things come in small numbers, however: this horological gem in 18 carat red gold is limited to 500 pieces.

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Technical Specifications:

Reference: IW5449

Features: IWC minute repeater in a 44 millimetre diameter Portuguese case with a 98950 calibre mechanical movement, hand-wound, small hacking seconds, limited to 500 watches in platinum and 500 watches in 18ct red gold

Movement: Calibre 98900; Beats 28,800/h; Jewels 52; Power reserve 54 h; Winding hand-wound; Tourbillon weight 0.689 g

Case: watch in 18 ct red gold with black dial and black alligator leather strap, folding clasp in 18 ct red gold

Glass: sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Back: see-through sapphire-glass back
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 43.1mm
Height: 11mm

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Portuguese Minute Repeater (Ref. 5449)

Since 2009, the Portuguese Minute Repeater (Ref. 5449) with the new IWC-manufactured 98950-calibre movement in hunter style has chimed out the time in the most delightful way. Since then, it has also had the small seconds at “6 o’clock”. Each of the two variants in platinum and red gold is limited to 500 watches.

To explain the small difference that is visible on the dial, involving the relocation of the seconds display from “9 o’clock” to “6 o’clock”, a few horological details need to be added: the 98000 calibre family has always been a so-called Savonette or hunter movement, designed for pocket watches with a hinged cover. This means that the winding stem (crown) and the small seconds hand lie at an angle of 90 degrees in relation to one another. Conversely, in the Lépine style, which includes the 95 calibre family, the wheel train arrangement has the winding stem and the small seconds hand in a straight line. It actually makes sense for an open-face pocket watch to have the seconds display at “6 o’clock”. This is a rather unusual position in a pocket watch for the wrist, which is viewed like a watch with a hinged cover, because the seconds display must then be positioned at “9 o’clock”. All previous Portuguese Minute Repeaters have featured and have been distinguishable by this minor eccentricity. Most wearers even find the unaccustomed arrangement charming. On the other hand, the present Portuguese Minute Repeater will appeal to lovers of the classic dial design.

Technical Specifications:

Reference: IW5449

Features: IWC minute repeater in a 44 millimetre diameter Portuguese case with a 98950 calibre mechanical movement, hand-wound, small hacking seconds, limited to 500 watches in platinum and 500 watches in 18ct red gold

Movement: Calibre 98950; Beats 18,000/h; Jewels 52; Power reserve 46 h; Winding hand-wound

Case: watch in 18 ct red gold with silver-plated dial and dark brown alligator leather strap, folding clasp in 18 ct red gold
watch in platinum with ruthenium-black dial and black alligator leather strap, folding clasp in platinum

Glass: sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Back: see-through sapphire-glass back
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 44mm
Height: 14mm

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SIHH 2010: IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar

January 27th, 2010

In 2010, the Portuguese watches from IWC are entering their eighth decade. To celebrate its oldest and most popular collection, IWC introduced numerous Portuguese novelties at SIHH 2010, such as the Portuguese Grande Complication, the Portuguese Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde or the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph. These large format, mechanicalprecision instruments perpetuate the legacy of the famous seafarers to this day, and hand it down to today’s explorers.

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IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar (Ref. 5023)

Today, we are going to talk about the two IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar: Ref. 5021 and Ref. 5023.

Press Release

The manufacturer has treated the Portuguese Perpetual Calendar, its specialist for long calendar periods, to a gentle facelift and an extension to the model range: two new variants in red gold and two in white gold increase the variety of models on offer. Technically, there was nothing left to improve. This time machine with its perpetual calendar stands for sheer perfection.

It is the Portuguese watch which one might easily have imagined on the wrist of famous seafarers. Learned individuals with the necessary far-sightedness, spirit of discovery and a concrete vision of the future. Because the future is precisely the area of expertise of this particular time machine, which is as beguiling as it is technically impressive. The perpetual calendar, invented 25 years ago, lives on here in all its original complexity and genius-in conjunction with an IWC-manufactured large movement from the 50000-calibre family with a seven-day power reserve.

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This is an ideal combination for a complicated watch with calendar indications displaying the date, day, month, year in four digits and perpetual moon phase. The watch displays advance completely autonomously, mechanically programmed and synchronized with one another. Save for a leap day correction that becomes necessary in February 2100, this continues uninterrupted and without any intervention on the part of the wearer, who simply needs to input the required kinetic energy via the highly efficient Pellaton winding system of the automatic movement when wearing the watch. According to the complicated Gregorian calendar, which always assures years of almost constant length, the leap day that would be due to occur is absent at the end of February in the year in question, 2100, and this will necessitate an adjustment by a watchmaker. It might thus be appropriate to ensure that one’s grandson or great-grandson is aware of this fact. In that faroff year, incidentally, the century slide at the end of a long transmission chain will also be advanced by a couple of millimetres, and the numeral “21″ for the next hundred years set in the display window in place of the currently indicated “20″ to make the year display complete.

The beguiling new eternity in the form of the Portuguese Perpetual Calendar retains its two familiar faces: one model of this watch is equipped with a quasi-universal hemisphere lunar display (Ref. 5021), in which the miniature model of the Earth’s satellite is pictured twice. Exactly as the phases of the moon appear when viewed from the northern or southern hemisphere-that is to say reversed. This distinctive optical feature has to do with the visual angle and the different point of observation. The number of days remaining until the next full moon can also be read precisely on a supplementary countdown scale in this model. The new Portuguese Perpetual Calendar in 18 carat red gold with hemisphere lunar display (Ref. 5021) differs from the previous rose gold model through the rather warmer hue of the case material. The second new model, the white gold variant with a midnight blue dial and silver-plated highlights, for example for the seconds subdial or on the moon disc, presents a particularly attractive side as regards colour. The simultaneous display of the two moons functions as follows: it is not the moon disc itself that moves, but an engraved disc representing the globe with two circular cut-outs set against a silver-coloured background, which carries two blue circular surfaces in a horizontal plane. In this way, the moon in the southern hemisphere is shown mirror-inverted or laterally reversed in relation to the moon in the northern hemisphere.

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A second version of the Portuguese Perpetual Calendar is available with the classic cut-out moon phase display when observed from the northern hemisphere (Ref. 5023). The Earth’s satellite waxes onto this miniature stage from the left behind the semicircular setting becomes visible in the middle as a full moon and wanes on the right side behind the second semicircle. It is accompanied on the moon disc by small raised stars. The two new models with the representation of the moon behind a setting are now also housed in the 44.2-millimetre case of their sibling models (Ref. 5021). These are the variant in 18 carat red gold with a silver-plated dial, solid red gold appliqués and a red goldplated moon surrounded by small stars, and a highly discreet model in 18 carat white gold with rhodium-plated appliqués and a slate-coloured dial.

As far as the key astronomical indication of the Portuguese Perpetual Calendar, the moon, is concerned, it is able to match the precision of scientific instruments: in these watch models-and in these alone-the gearing has been
modified, thanks to the available space, so as to permit the moon cycle to be displayed with unprecedented accuracy. A tiny residual error of 12 seconds per lunar period (29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 3 seconds) will add up to a deviation of just one day after 577 years. In other words: only the moon in the heavens is more accurate according to our current state of knowledge. And then only by a small margin.

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IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar (Ref. 5021)

Technical Specifications:

Reference: IW5021 / IW5023

Features: IWC-manufactured movement with Pellaton winding system and seven-day power reserve, perpetual calendar, perpetual moon phase display, hemisphere lunar display, four-digit year display, small hacking seconds, Breguet spring, rotor with 18 ct yellow gold medallion

Movement: Calibre 51614 / 51613; Beats 21,600/h; Jewels 62; Power reserve 7 days; Winding automatic

Case: watch in 18 ct red / white gold with black dial and dark brown alligator leather strap, folding clasp in 18 ct red / white gold

Glass: sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Back: see-through sapphire-glass back
Crown: screw-in
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 44.2mm
Height: 15.5mm

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SIHH 2010: IWC Portuguese Grande Complication and Portuguese Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde

January 26th, 2010

In 2010, the Portuguese watches from IWC are entering their eighth decade. To celebrate its oldest and most popular collection, IWC introduced numerous Portuguese novelties at SIHH 2010, such as the Portuguese Grande Complication, the Portuguese Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde or the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph. These large format, mechanicalprecision instruments perpetuate the legacy of the famous seafarers to this day, and hand it down to today’s explorers.

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Portuguese Grande Complication (Ref. 3774)

Today, our topics are set at the Portuguese Grande Complication (Ref. 3774) and the Portuguese Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde (Ref. 5044).

The Grande Complication from IWC Schaffhausen, which brought the highest horological complications together in a wristwatch as a world-first precisely twenty years ago, now appears for the first time in a Portuguese case. It also retains its impressive technical inventory: perpetual calendar, minute repeater and chronograph with automatic movement.

After 30 years as an exclusive solitaire in the manufacturer’s range, the Grande Complication now makes its début in the red gold Portuguese case – as the Portuguese Grande Complication (Ref. 3774). With more room inside the 45 millimetres case, and for the first time waterresistant to 3 bar, the beautiful sound from its minute repeating mechanism nevertheless remains unchanged. A discreetly engraved globe and gold appliqués decorate the silver-plated dial. True to the tradition of the Grande Complication, a limited edition of fifty watches per year is retained. A new engraving on the case back depicts a sextant and makes the affiliation with the Portuguese family obvious.

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Portuguese Grande Complication (Ref. 3774)

Technical Specifications

Reference: IW3774

Features: Grande Complication with 657 mechanical components, automatic chronograph movement, perpetual calendar with display of the day, date, month and the complete year in four digits, perpetual moon phase, minute repeater, small hacking seconds, engraving of a sextant on the case back

Movement: Calibre 79091; Beats 28,800/h; Jewels 75; Power reserve 44 h; Winding automatic

Case: watch and folding clasp in 18 ct red gold, silver-plated dial, dark brown alligator leather strap with 18 ct red gold stitching

Glass: sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 45mm
Height: 16.5mm

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Portuguese Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde (Ref. 5044)

The coveted Portuguese Tourbillon Mystère in two new, limited series in platinum and red gold with the retrograde date display is enhanced by an additional horological refinement, which also appears in the name of this novelty: Portuguese Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde (Ref. 5044). A date indicator with a flyback function at the end of the month has been integrated into this exceptional watch for the first time. The role of the seconds display is performed by the cage of the minute tourbillon.

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Whereas in the previous model the tourbillon was still embedded in a plate segment decorated with cylindrical grinding, in the Portuguese Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde it is set in a ring that is mirror-finished on the inside, in which the parts of the escapement are reflected once again. For aside from the technical delicacy of this escapement, the Portuguese Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde is above all a true feast for the eyes.

In addition to the 500-piece limited edition of the variant in 18 carat red gold with solid gold appliqués and a silver-plated dial, a 250-piece limited edition of the variant in platinum with a ruthenium-black dial and rhodium-plated hands and indices is also available.

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Technical Specifications:

Reference: IW5044

Features: Mechanical IWC-manufactured movement with Pellaton winding system and seven-day power reserve, retrograde date display, flying minute tourbillon with 81 parts, Breguet spring, rotor with 18 ct yellow gold medallion; red gold variant limited to 500 pieces, platinum variant limited to 250 pieces

Movement: Calibre 51900; Beats 19,800/h; Jewels 44; Power reserve 7 days; Winding automatic; Tourbillon weight 0.433 g

Case: watch in 18 ct red gold with silver-plated dial and dark brown alligator leather strap, folding clasp in 18 ct red gold
watch in platinum with ruthenium-black dial and black alligator leather strap, folding clasp in platinum

Glass: sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Back: see-through sapphire-glass back
Crown: screw-in
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 44.2mm
Height: 15.5mm

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SIHH 2010: IWC Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph and Portuguese Hand-Wound

January 25th, 2010

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Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph (Ref. 3902)

In 2010, the Portuguese watches from IWC are entering their eighth decade. To celebrate its oldest and most popular collection, IWC introduced numerous Portuguese novelties at SIHH 2010, such as the Portuguese Grande Complication, the Portuguese Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde or the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph. These large format, mechanicalprecision instruments perpetuate the legacy of the famous seafarers to this day, and hand it down to today’s explorers.

This week, I will introduce all the ten new IWC Portuguese watches released at SIHH 2010. Today, let’s go over the first two stunning novelties by IWC – the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph (Ref. 3902) and the Portuguese Hand-Wound (Ref. IW5454).

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Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph (Ref. 3902)

The Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph (Ref. 3902) not only revives the name of one of the most successful IWC watches of the last century. The new Yacht Club also introduces a generous pinch of sporting appeal into the Portuguese family – and in this way does justice to its legendary predecessor. It has been upgraded technically to make it the perfect companion for navigation and sailing: in the IWC-manufactured 89360-calibre movement, it has one of the most modern and robust chronograph movements on board – with a flyback function and analogue display of the long stop times via two hands on an inner dial. It is water-resistant to 6 bar and is the only Portuguese to have luminous hands and indices. Its large, clear dial makes it a perfect chronograph. It is available in steel with a black or silver-plated dial and in red gold with a slate-coloured dial and black registers.

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Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph (Ref. 3902)

The Yacht Club is reporting back for duty in a remarkable way after an absence of around a quarter of a century. It is available as the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph in three variants: in steel with a silver-plated dial, rhodium-plated luminescent hands and appliqués. Again in steel with a black dial, silver-plated flange and rhodium-plated hands and appliqués, also luminescent. The most refined model in 18 carat red gold has an slate-coloured dial with a sun pattern ground finish, subtly contrasted by the black small seconds display circle and the black ring for the aggregate minutes of the chronograph. This model is distinguished additionally by gold-plated hands and solid red gold appliqués.

All three variants are worn on a black rubber strap with a folding clasp. And during those hours of total calm on board, far out to sea, a glance through the sapphire-glass back at the IWC-manufactured movement with IWC’s double-pawl winding even brings the yachtsman a little distraction.

Technical Specifications

Reference: IW3902

Features: Chronograph with IWC-manufactured automatic movement and IWC’s double-pawl winding, flyback function, stopwatch function with hours, minutes and seconds, hour and minute counters combined in a single subdial at 12 o’clock, date display, small hacking seconds, crown protection

Movement: Calibre 89360; Beats 28,800/h; Jewels 40; Power reserve 68 h; Winding automatic

Case: watch in stainless steel with silver-plated dial and black rubber strap, folding clasp in stainless steel
watch in stainless steel with black dial and black rubber strap, folding clasp in stainless steel
watch in 18 ct red gold with slate-coloured dial and black rubber strap, folding clasp in 18 ct red gold

Glass: sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Back: see-through sapphire-glass back
Crown: screw-in
Water-resistant: 6 bar
Diameter: 45.4mm
Height: 14.5mm

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Portuguese Hand-Wound (Ref. 5454)

The Portuguese Hand-Wound is a contemporary witness to IWC’s Portuguese family of watches, which has been in existence since 1939. Often when the manufacturer celebrates a significant anniversary, it presents connoisseurs with an item that further extends that particular success story. That is once again the case with this unassuming beauty, which celebrates the family’s eighth decade.

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Portuguese Hand-Wound (Ref. 5454)

Back to the roots: with this message the new Portuguese Hand-Wound (Ref. 5454) appeals to all those who are still fascinated by the original form and understatement of the Portuguese. And rightly so: in the IWC-manufactured 98295 calibre hand-wound movement it, too, has the technology of a classic pocket watch on board. Two variants in steel drawing closely on the original interpret the theme anew and with a breath of modernity: in the version with the black dial, this finds expression in a silver seconds scale with discreet red “60″ marking. The model with a silver-plated dial differs from all the previous faces of the Portuguese watch through a grey counter for the small seconds and likewise red “60″ marking.

Technical Specifications

Reference: IW5454

Features: Mechanical movement, balance with highprecision adjustment cam on the balance arms, Breguet spring, plate and nickel-silver three-quarter bridge, elongated precision adjustment index, special decoration (Geneva stripes), small hacking seconds

Movement: Calibre 98295; Beats 18,000/h; Jewels 18; Power reserve 46 h; Winding hand-wound

Case: watch in stainless steel with black dial and black alligator leather strap, pin buckle in stainless steel
watch in stainless steel with silver-plated dial and black alligator leather strap, pin buckle in stainless steel

Glass: sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
Back: see-through sapphire-glass back
Crown: screw-in
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 44mm
Height: 10mm

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SIHH 2010: A. Lange & Sohne Admirable “165 Years – Homage to F.A. Lange” Anniversary Collection

January 23rd, 2010

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Yesterday, I introduced the magnificent and historic Grand Complication 42500 pocket watch from A. Lange & Sohne. In fact, it is a member of the new “165 Years – Homage to F.A. Lange” anniversary collection, along with the TOURBOGRAPH “Pour le Me´rite”, the LANGE 1 TOURBILLON, and the 1815 MOONPHASE. These creations pays sincere tribute to the founder of Germany’s precision watchmaking industry and to the trailblazing creations devised in his manufactory.

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TOURBOGRAPH “Pour le Me´rite”

The rest three watches of the collection are the trilogy of values – three horological milestones. With a series of exceptional complications, those incredible timepieces demonstrate the spiritual legacy of the founder of Germany’s precision watchmaking industry, as well as the horological heritage of Ferdinand Adolph Lange enriched with contemporary ingenuity and artisanal virtuosity. Dressed in novel gold alloy cases of hitherto unmatched hardness, the three impressive timekeeping instruments give a new face to the enduring watchmaking tradition of the Lange family as regards technical and aesthetic perfection.

In 1845, Ferdinand Adolph Lange moved from the splendour of palatial Dresden to the remote and impoverished mining town of Glashutte to make his dream of the ideal watch manufactory come true. He started his work with the intention of creating the world’s finest watches. With the awareness of the fact that today’s innovation is tomorrow’s standard, he believed that precision watchmaking owes numerous inventions and enhancements. For example, he was one of the first members to adopt metric units of measurement and abandon the then prevalent but complicated Parisian ligne system. His work featured the quest for extreme precision. The drafts for mechanisms of his own design, even the most complicated ones, were benchmarking as regards clarity of engineering and layout. His values remain the “standard” that inspires the work of all Lange employees.

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1815 MOONPHASE

The novel case metal for the new collection is developed exclusively for Lange, reaffirming the capabilities of A. Lange & Sohne. With a Vickers hardness of over 300, the 18-carat honey-coloured gold is about twice as hard as other gold alloys. A balance spring developed and manufactured in-house is breathing beneath the hand-engraved balance cock made of the same material. It manifests the innovative energy with which every Lange watch is endowed. A guilloched solid- gold dial and a sunburst finish on the three-quarter plate of the 1815 MOONPHASE and the crown wheel cock of the LANGE 1 TOURBILLON present the proud ancestral artisanship of the family tradition.

The 1815 MOONPHASE symbolizes the company’s constant quest for the supreme precision. No effort was spared to calculate an extremely accurate moon-phase train for this watch. Thanks to a suite of wheels with special transmission ratios, its error per lunar month is a nearly infinitesimal 6.61 seconds. It takes 1,058 years for this error to add up to a deviation of one day relative to the actual lunar cycle. For instance, had such a timepiece existed in the year 952 – during the lifetime of Otto I the Great – and had it run without interruption since then, its moon-phase display would have to be corrected for the first time this year (2010 = 952 + 1058).

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LANGE 1 TOURBILLON with the CABARET TOURBILLON

The LANGE1 TOURBILLON is based on the legendary LANGE 1, whose first version was released at the turn of the millennium. To mark the admirable anniversary collection, the new version of the LANGE1 TOURBILLON has been integrated with the patented stop-seconds mechanism owned by the breathtaking CABARET TOURBILLON. With this marvelous heart, the watch is enabled to directly and instantaneously stop the balance inside the rotating tourbillon cage, which for two hundred years was considered to be the ne plus ultra of horological sophistication.

With a view to the concepts the collection embodies, the group of the three watches reaffirms Lange’s powerful claim “state-of-the-art tradition”. It expresses Lange’s long-standing principle of questioning the validity of even what is already considered perfect.

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SIHH 2010: A. Lange & Sohne Grand Complication No. 42500

January 22nd, 2010

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In the picture is the splendid A. Lange & Sohne Grand Complication No. 42500, whose restoration has taken nearly 9 years. To give a second birth to this historic Lange pocket watch is a painstaking task yet a magnificent feat for the whole industry.

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It is in 2001 that the worm-eaten original watch was brought to Jan Sliva, head of the in-house studio for historic Lange pocket watches. It was particularly large and heavy, and its case was engraved with an intricate motif designed by Professor Graff. At first sight judging from the appearance, Jan Sliva was sure about that the timepiece was an exceptional one. However, he was astonished and scared when he opened the artistically decorated caseback. What he found is a movement that at best could be called “scrap heap”. All parts were grimy, many were rusted, some were missing altogether, others were broken or so heavily corroded that their original shape could merely be surmised. Only the eight-part enamel dial was in relatively good condition. Just as what Jan Sliva said, the original watch was an inestimably precious junkyard.

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The A. Lange & Sohne Grand Complication No. 42500 is a unique piece in the world. The one and only model was sold to a resident of Vienna for 5,600 marks in 1902. At that time, the amount of money was equivalent to the price of a stately house. The watch was really worth the price. It unites a host of fascinating complications: a chiming mechanism with a grand strike and a small strike, a minute repeater, a split-seconds chronograph with a minute counter and flying seconds (seconde foudroyante), as well as a perpetual calendar with a moon-phase display. Its nickel-plated German silver movement in 1A quality consists of an incredible 833 parts. In face of such a venerable of great historic value, Jan Sliva and his colleagues decided to study and document the functions and interactions of the individual components on the basis of what was left and to fully restore the functionality of all the mechanisms. “This is the only chance we had,” says the master watchmaker, “to preserve the ingenuity of our fathers and forefathers for coming generations. What good is a heap of rust, however authentic it might be, if no one knows what it once looked like and how it worked?”

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Finally, in 2009, the A. Lange & Sohne Grand Complication No. 42500 made a stunning comeback as a complicated star. It has been completely restored to its former splendour. And now, it is on public display for the first time at the SIHH 2010 in Geneva. The restoration of the breathtaking watch symbols the building of a bridge that connects the ingenuity of the Lange watchmaking dynasty with the virtuosity of the current generation of watchmakers. “After this, I can’t imagine what might still lie ahead,” Jan Sliva says. “Only very, very few people get a chance during their lifetime to restore such a treasure.” As a monument of horological expertise and human passion, this watch is indeed the highlight of Jan Sliva’s horological career.

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SIHH 2010: A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia Annual Calendar and Little Saxonia

January 20th, 2010

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Today, we are going to talk about two new watches of Saxonia line released by A. Lange & Sohne at SIHH 2010 – Saxonia Annual Calendar and Little Saxonia. The former is definitely one of the most refined and multifunctional watches from the famous German watchmaker, while the latter is one of the smallest watches built by the company.

The Saxonia Annual Calendar watch demonstrates a surprising combination of refined external design and functionality. As seen on the argenté Solid silver, the watch has everything practical a Lange owner can expect: time indication with hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop seconds and ZERO-RESET function, annual calendar with patented outsize date, day-of-week, month, and moon-phase displays. All the useful complication has been housed in a white or pink gold case in the diameter of 38.5mm. The blued steel Rhodiumed pink gold hands causes a nice visual contrast along with the white dial. The operating elements includes a crown, made of the same material with the case, and a push piece for advancing the outsize date, day-of-week, month, and moon-phase displays.

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Ticking inside the marvelous watch is a self-winding Lange manufacture calibre L085.1 SAX-0-MAT, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards and largely decorated and assembled by hand. When looking through the sapphire case back, we are enabled to appreciate the finest workings of the watch heart: three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver with integrated three-quarter rotor in 21-carat gold and centrifugal mass in platinum, reversing and reduction gear with four ball bearings; balance cock engraved by hand. The Oscillation system deserves to be mentioned: Shock-resistant glucydur screw balance, Nivarox balance spring, frequency 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour, whiplash precision index adjuster with patented beat adjustment mechanism. The movement offers a power reserve of 46 hours.

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Though the Saxonia Annual Calendar is very awesome, the brand has already unveiled some watches similar to this watch. However, the Little Saxonia is really an exceptional model in the case that it’s very hard to find some A. Lange & Sohne watches created exclusively for the ladies. In the size of no larger than 34mm in diameter and only 8mm high, the watch highly suits its name “Little”, a synonym of the lovely in the feminine world. This exquisite timepiece is a perfect fit for ladies’ wrists. Set with 52 brilliant-cut diamonds, its case and the scintillating dial in natural mother-of-pearl will make its wearer shine on a very special night out, which is why it’s been given the nickname ‘Soirée’.

The movement for the classy watch is the Lange manufacture calibre L941.2. A glance through the sapphire-crystal caseback is a feast for the eyes of those who delight in technical finesse – from the three-quarter plate and the gold chatons secured with blued screws to the whiplash precision index adjuster. There are three versions available for the Little Saxonia: white, yellow and rose gold. This model is a little alternative for the A. Lange & Sohne and the event of SIHH 2010.

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