Posts Tagged ‘IWC Portuguese’

SIHH 2010: IWC Portuguese Tourbillon Hand-Wound and Portuguese Minute Repeater

January 28th, 2010

In 2010, the Portuguese watches from IWC are entering their eighth decade. To celebrate its oldest and most popular collection, IWC introduced numerous Portuguese novelties at SIHH 2010, such as the Portuguese Grande Complication, the Portuguese Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde or the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph. These large format, mechanicalprecision instruments perpetuate the legacy of the famous seafarers to this day, and hand it down to today’s explorers.

Today, we are going to review another two exceptional Portuguese watches from IWC: the Portuguese Tourbillon Hand-Wound and the Portuguese Minute Repeater.

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Portuguese Tourbillon Hand-Wound (Ref. 5447)

A new tourbillon classic takes its place in the Portuguese family, with a hand-wound pocket watch movement – tradition in its purest form. The Portuguese Tourbillon Hand-Wound is an horological gem and a tribute to the founder of the company, F. A. Jones.

The Portuguese Tourbillon Hand-Wound (Ref. 5447) with its reduced overall height and the minute tourbillon at “9 o’clock” has undergone a subtle and attractive facelift: the signature of the founder of the company, F.A. Jones, on the dial opposite the tourbillon is a reference to the factory movement of the 98900-calibre family, which is evocative of the design of the first Jones calibres. The Portuguese Tourbillon Hand-Wound, with a chunky crown used to supply a power reserve of 54 hours, is housed in a case with a diameter of 43.1 millimetres and a height of only 11 millimetres. Extraordinary things come in small numbers, however: this horological gem in 18 carat red gold is limited to 500 pieces.

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Technical Specifications:

Reference: IW5449

Features: IWC minute repeater in a 44 millimetre diameter Portuguese case with a 98950 calibre mechanical movement, hand-wound, small hacking seconds, limited to 500 watches in platinum and 500 watches in 18ct red gold

Movement: Calibre 98900; Beats 28,800/h; Jewels 52; Power reserve 54 h; Winding hand-wound; Tourbillon weight 0.689 g

Case: watch in 18 ct red gold with black dial and black alligator leather strap, folding clasp in 18 ct red gold

Glass: sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Back: see-through sapphire-glass back
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 43.1mm
Height: 11mm

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Portuguese Minute Repeater (Ref. 5449)

Since 2009, the Portuguese Minute Repeater (Ref. 5449) with the new IWC-manufactured 98950-calibre movement in hunter style has chimed out the time in the most delightful way. Since then, it has also had the small seconds at “6 o’clock”. Each of the two variants in platinum and red gold is limited to 500 watches.

To explain the small difference that is visible on the dial, involving the relocation of the seconds display from “9 o’clock” to “6 o’clock”, a few horological details need to be added: the 98000 calibre family has always been a so-called Savonette or hunter movement, designed for pocket watches with a hinged cover. This means that the winding stem (crown) and the small seconds hand lie at an angle of 90 degrees in relation to one another. Conversely, in the Lépine style, which includes the 95 calibre family, the wheel train arrangement has the winding stem and the small seconds hand in a straight line. It actually makes sense for an open-face pocket watch to have the seconds display at “6 o’clock”. This is a rather unusual position in a pocket watch for the wrist, which is viewed like a watch with a hinged cover, because the seconds display must then be positioned at “9 o’clock”. All previous Portuguese Minute Repeaters have featured and have been distinguishable by this minor eccentricity. Most wearers even find the unaccustomed arrangement charming. On the other hand, the present Portuguese Minute Repeater will appeal to lovers of the classic dial design.

Technical Specifications:

Reference: IW5449

Features: IWC minute repeater in a 44 millimetre diameter Portuguese case with a 98950 calibre mechanical movement, hand-wound, small hacking seconds, limited to 500 watches in platinum and 500 watches in 18ct red gold

Movement: Calibre 98950; Beats 18,000/h; Jewels 52; Power reserve 46 h; Winding hand-wound

Case: watch in 18 ct red gold with silver-plated dial and dark brown alligator leather strap, folding clasp in 18 ct red gold
watch in platinum with ruthenium-black dial and black alligator leather strap, folding clasp in platinum

Glass: sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Back: see-through sapphire-glass back
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 44mm
Height: 14mm

SIHH 2010: IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar

January 27th, 2010

In 2010, the Portuguese watches from IWC are entering their eighth decade. To celebrate its oldest and most popular collection, IWC introduced numerous Portuguese novelties at SIHH 2010, such as the Portuguese Grande Complication, the Portuguese Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde or the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph. These large format, mechanicalprecision instruments perpetuate the legacy of the famous seafarers to this day, and hand it down to today’s explorers.

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IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar (Ref. 5023)

Today, we are going to talk about the two IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar: Ref. 5021 and Ref. 5023.

Press Release

The manufacturer has treated the Portuguese Perpetual Calendar, its specialist for long calendar periods, to a gentle facelift and an extension to the model range: two new variants in red gold and two in white gold increase the variety of models on offer. Technically, there was nothing left to improve. This time machine with its perpetual calendar stands for sheer perfection.

It is the Portuguese watch which one might easily have imagined on the wrist of famous seafarers. Learned individuals with the necessary far-sightedness, spirit of discovery and a concrete vision of the future. Because the future is precisely the area of expertise of this particular time machine, which is as beguiling as it is technically impressive. The perpetual calendar, invented 25 years ago, lives on here in all its original complexity and genius-in conjunction with an IWC-manufactured large movement from the 50000-calibre family with a seven-day power reserve.

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This is an ideal combination for a complicated watch with calendar indications displaying the date, day, month, year in four digits and perpetual moon phase. The watch displays advance completely autonomously, mechanically programmed and synchronized with one another. Save for a leap day correction that becomes necessary in February 2100, this continues uninterrupted and without any intervention on the part of the wearer, who simply needs to input the required kinetic energy via the highly efficient Pellaton winding system of the automatic movement when wearing the watch. According to the complicated Gregorian calendar, which always assures years of almost constant length, the leap day that would be due to occur is absent at the end of February in the year in question, 2100, and this will necessitate an adjustment by a watchmaker. It might thus be appropriate to ensure that one’s grandson or great-grandson is aware of this fact. In that faroff year, incidentally, the century slide at the end of a long transmission chain will also be advanced by a couple of millimetres, and the numeral “21″ for the next hundred years set in the display window in place of the currently indicated “20″ to make the year display complete.

The beguiling new eternity in the form of the Portuguese Perpetual Calendar retains its two familiar faces: one model of this watch is equipped with a quasi-universal hemisphere lunar display (Ref. 5021), in which the miniature model of the Earth’s satellite is pictured twice. Exactly as the phases of the moon appear when viewed from the northern or southern hemisphere-that is to say reversed. This distinctive optical feature has to do with the visual angle and the different point of observation. The number of days remaining until the next full moon can also be read precisely on a supplementary countdown scale in this model. The new Portuguese Perpetual Calendar in 18 carat red gold with hemisphere lunar display (Ref. 5021) differs from the previous rose gold model through the rather warmer hue of the case material. The second new model, the white gold variant with a midnight blue dial and silver-plated highlights, for example for the seconds subdial or on the moon disc, presents a particularly attractive side as regards colour. The simultaneous display of the two moons functions as follows: it is not the moon disc itself that moves, but an engraved disc representing the globe with two circular cut-outs set against a silver-coloured background, which carries two blue circular surfaces in a horizontal plane. In this way, the moon in the southern hemisphere is shown mirror-inverted or laterally reversed in relation to the moon in the northern hemisphere.

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A second version of the Portuguese Perpetual Calendar is available with the classic cut-out moon phase display when observed from the northern hemisphere (Ref. 5023). The Earth’s satellite waxes onto this miniature stage from the left behind the semicircular setting becomes visible in the middle as a full moon and wanes on the right side behind the second semicircle. It is accompanied on the moon disc by small raised stars. The two new models with the representation of the moon behind a setting are now also housed in the 44.2-millimetre case of their sibling models (Ref. 5021). These are the variant in 18 carat red gold with a silver-plated dial, solid red gold appliqués and a red goldplated moon surrounded by small stars, and a highly discreet model in 18 carat white gold with rhodium-plated appliqués and a slate-coloured dial.

As far as the key astronomical indication of the Portuguese Perpetual Calendar, the moon, is concerned, it is able to match the precision of scientific instruments: in these watch models-and in these alone-the gearing has been
modified, thanks to the available space, so as to permit the moon cycle to be displayed with unprecedented accuracy. A tiny residual error of 12 seconds per lunar period (29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 3 seconds) will add up to a deviation of just one day after 577 years. In other words: only the moon in the heavens is more accurate according to our current state of knowledge. And then only by a small margin.

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IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar (Ref. 5021)

Technical Specifications:

Reference: IW5021 / IW5023

Features: IWC-manufactured movement with Pellaton winding system and seven-day power reserve, perpetual calendar, perpetual moon phase display, hemisphere lunar display, four-digit year display, small hacking seconds, Breguet spring, rotor with 18 ct yellow gold medallion

Movement: Calibre 51614 / 51613; Beats 21,600/h; Jewels 62; Power reserve 7 days; Winding automatic

Case: watch in 18 ct red / white gold with black dial and dark brown alligator leather strap, folding clasp in 18 ct red / white gold

Glass: sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Back: see-through sapphire-glass back
Crown: screw-in
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 44.2mm
Height: 15.5mm

SIHH 2010: IWC Portuguese Grande Complication and Portuguese Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde

January 26th, 2010

In 2010, the Portuguese watches from IWC are entering their eighth decade. To celebrate its oldest and most popular collection, IWC introduced numerous Portuguese novelties at SIHH 2010, such as the Portuguese Grande Complication, the Portuguese Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde or the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph. These large format, mechanicalprecision instruments perpetuate the legacy of the famous seafarers to this day, and hand it down to today’s explorers.

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Portuguese Grande Complication (Ref. 3774)

Today, our topics are set at the Portuguese Grande Complication (Ref. 3774) and the Portuguese Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde (Ref. 5044).

The Grande Complication from IWC Schaffhausen, which brought the highest horological complications together in a wristwatch as a world-first precisely twenty years ago, now appears for the first time in a Portuguese case. It also retains its impressive technical inventory: perpetual calendar, minute repeater and chronograph with automatic movement.

After 30 years as an exclusive solitaire in the manufacturer’s range, the Grande Complication now makes its début in the red gold Portuguese case – as the Portuguese Grande Complication (Ref. 3774). With more room inside the 45 millimetres case, and for the first time waterresistant to 3 bar, the beautiful sound from its minute repeating mechanism nevertheless remains unchanged. A discreetly engraved globe and gold appliqués decorate the silver-plated dial. True to the tradition of the Grande Complication, a limited edition of fifty watches per year is retained. A new engraving on the case back depicts a sextant and makes the affiliation with the Portuguese family obvious.

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Portuguese Grande Complication (Ref. 3774)

Technical Specifications

Reference: IW3774

Features: Grande Complication with 657 mechanical components, automatic chronograph movement, perpetual calendar with display of the day, date, month and the complete year in four digits, perpetual moon phase, minute repeater, small hacking seconds, engraving of a sextant on the case back

Movement: Calibre 79091; Beats 28,800/h; Jewels 75; Power reserve 44 h; Winding automatic

Case: watch and folding clasp in 18 ct red gold, silver-plated dial, dark brown alligator leather strap with 18 ct red gold stitching

Glass: sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 45mm
Height: 16.5mm

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Portuguese Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde (Ref. 5044)

The coveted Portuguese Tourbillon Mystère in two new, limited series in platinum and red gold with the retrograde date display is enhanced by an additional horological refinement, which also appears in the name of this novelty: Portuguese Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde (Ref. 5044). A date indicator with a flyback function at the end of the month has been integrated into this exceptional watch for the first time. The role of the seconds display is performed by the cage of the minute tourbillon.

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Whereas in the previous model the tourbillon was still embedded in a plate segment decorated with cylindrical grinding, in the Portuguese Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde it is set in a ring that is mirror-finished on the inside, in which the parts of the escapement are reflected once again. For aside from the technical delicacy of this escapement, the Portuguese Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde is above all a true feast for the eyes.

In addition to the 500-piece limited edition of the variant in 18 carat red gold with solid gold appliqués and a silver-plated dial, a 250-piece limited edition of the variant in platinum with a ruthenium-black dial and rhodium-plated hands and indices is also available.

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Technical Specifications:

Reference: IW5044

Features: Mechanical IWC-manufactured movement with Pellaton winding system and seven-day power reserve, retrograde date display, flying minute tourbillon with 81 parts, Breguet spring, rotor with 18 ct yellow gold medallion; red gold variant limited to 500 pieces, platinum variant limited to 250 pieces

Movement: Calibre 51900; Beats 19,800/h; Jewels 44; Power reserve 7 days; Winding automatic; Tourbillon weight 0.433 g

Case: watch in 18 ct red gold with silver-plated dial and dark brown alligator leather strap, folding clasp in 18 ct red gold
watch in platinum with ruthenium-black dial and black alligator leather strap, folding clasp in platinum

Glass: sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Back: see-through sapphire-glass back
Crown: screw-in
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 44.2mm
Height: 15.5mm

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